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Manila
Many people dismiss Manila as nothing more than a 12 million person-strong entry point to more interesting rural destinations in the Philippines. And while the less built-up areas of the country do offer much to the adventurous traveller, those who stop to smell the incense and pollution find that the capital city has a few hidden treasures of its own. Manila is a modern-looking place (a result of virtual destruction during WWII), but the sprawling city boasts its fair share of colonial ruins - enough to keep those historically inclined amused for a while, anyway.
If you're looking for a good time, Manila could be just the ticket: bars and entertainment venues will keep you well fed, well greased and in the party mood for months on end. There is a high-profile tacky downside to the flashing neon, but there are plenty of options open to you even if you don't want nude dancers on your table. If you make it back to your room at night after all the fun and frolics, you're likely to perform an exhausted manila-folder flop.
Information
Population: 12 million
Area: 636 sq km (248 sq mi)
Country: Philippines
People: Malay, Chinese, Spanish, American, various tribal groups
Main language: Pilipino, English
Time Zone: GMT/UTC+8
Telephone Area Code: 02
Orientation
Manila, like most of the world's large cities, suffers from a huge and problematic urban sprawl. Typically, urban sprawl also creates nightmares for travellers, although the main points of interest to visitors are centralised, making suburban navigation unnecessary. Manila sprawls east from Manila Bay along the Pasig River, and immediately south of the river is Intramuros, the old walled Spanish town where many of the city's historical sites are found. Further south again and you'll find yourself in the 'tourist belt' of the Malate and Ermita districts, where you'll find restaurants, accommodation and travel agencies.
Arriving in Manila's Ninoy Aquino International Airport is about as far as you'll ever get from a streamlined process. Poor signage, crowds and an illogical layout all contribute to the chaos, but if you're confused, you won't be alone. Once you finally make your way to the street, things begin to look up. The airport, only about 8km (5mi) south of the centre of Manila, is well served by buses and taxis, and there is a metrorail station about 2km (1.2mi) away.
Attractions
Intramuros
The original Chinese settlement on this site was rebuilt as a fort in 1590 by the Spanish, who replaced the wooden buildings with stone. Gradually the area was expanded until it became a walled city containing 15 churches and six monasteries. The walls are 3km (1.8mi) long and 6m (20ft) high, and are about all that remains after WWII finished off what General Douglas MacArthur had started. MacArthur used Intramuros as his base, tearing down old buildings and widening the roads.In recent years, renovations have begun on some of the remaining buildings. Casa Manila is restored to its former glory, while the church and monastery of San Agustin has remained virtually untouched since the earliest construction at the site. The Manila Cathedral has been damaged or destroyed six times since it was built. You can also see the ruins of Fort Santiago, which is now a pleasant park, and the interesting Rizal Shrine Museum, devoted to the Filipino martyr. Intramuros is just south of the river, in the heart of Manila.
Rizal Park
Separating Intramuros and the city beyond from the tourist centre of Ermita is the neat Rizal Park (also known as Luneta). It's a meeting and entertainment place, popular with everyone in Manila - and on a pleasant Sunday it seems that all 12 million of them have come down to enjoy the peace and quiet. In the north-west corner of the park is Rizal's execution site, marked by dramatic statues of the event. The park also features a planetarium, a Chinese and Japanese garden, fountains, a floral clock and an area for roller-skaters. Don't miss the impressive dinosaurs at the Children's Amusement Park, in the south-east corner of the park.
Getting There & Away
Manila's main international airport is the Ninoy Aquino, though some airlines are turning their backs on the chaos and heading for the relative order of Cebu City's Mactan Island Airport. If you're leaving the Philippines by plane, you'd be better off booking a ticket before you arrive - discounts are hard to come by.You can also arrive and depart Manila by bus, but the organisation is about as good as the airport's, and there's no central long-distance bus terminal. Once you finally get on the right bus, the trip will generally be a good one. The country's one remaining train line links Manila to the Bicol region in the south. It's not advised to take this option as the train is slow and sometimes dangerous.
Getting Around
Manila is served by a comprehensive bus system, but marred by choking traffic, especially at peak hour(s). The Metrorail, or MRT, runs north-south and lets you sail above the nightmare traffic. The trains get very crowded as people travel home from work, but the system is still much quicker than crawling along in a bus, taxi or jeepney. Car hire is available, but with public transport so good and the traffic so bad, there's really no need to bother.
